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"It’s the chicken-skin yakitori you eat at 2 a.m. in a bar the size of a cupboard. It’s the pork curry you devour after having to line up for 45 minutes with a bunch of excited teenagers. It’s the yuzu ramen you slurp after ordering it from a vending machine. It’s the tonkatsu you buy in a vast shopping-center basement. And it’s the oden that’s served to you by a laid-back surfer from Okinawa."